A Day in Bangkok

Last week I received an e-mail from Cheap Tickets letting me know that there had been a significant change in my itinerary and to call them. Usually, when there is a change I just get a friendly reminder that there has been a delay, or something small like that. A bit worried I called the hotline and was told that our flight from Bangkok to Mumbai had been cancelled. Luckily (thanks to the lovely people at Cheap Tickets), we were able to book a much later flight to Mumbai, one that left Bangkok at 8:30 p.m. So, what to do with a day in Bangkok? Travel along the canals? Visit the revered Grand Palace? Climb the steps of a monastery? I am a little ashamed to admit that we did not choose any of these fabulous options, but instead we chose to spend the night in a cheap hotel, sleep in, and creep the famous Khao San Road for a few hours before heading back to the airport.

We arrived in Bangkok at 1 a.m., and thought we might just sleep in the lightly padded chairs of the airport check-in area. Why not? We are young(ish), robust(ish), and adventurous. By the time we got through customs it was nearly 2:30 a.m., and all we really wanted was a bed. We went to the hotel booking counter, and for $30 we booked a room at a spot five minutes from the airport. Now, it was nothing spectacular, but the air con worked and the sheets were clean, so we were happy. We slugged around and finally got out of there at about 11:00 a.m.

We embarked on our journey to the famed Khao San Road. We had seen the Hollywood version of it on The Beach, we had read about the ladyboys, entertainment, and touts. You would think we would avoid it, but this is how we roll.

Out taxi driver, who tried to charge us 650 Baht (we only gave him 350, a fair price), dropped us right in the middle of the action. The streets are lined with tuktuks, fried noodles, egg rolls, iced fruit, stalls selling everything imaginable, bars, restaurants, and more. It wasn’t nearly as crazy as I was expecting, but then again, it was early. B opted for a Thai massage while I decided to do something about my winter feet and got a pedicure. Mine cost 150 Baht and B’s 200. That’s just over $11.

After that, we went to a so called beer garden, which just had a few beers on tap. There were also a couple of interesting drinks on the menu, the orgasm and sperms. Although curious, I opted for a good old Thai Chang. We ate some food and drank two big ones. Aft that we rushed to get a cab back to the airport, feeling quite full and a little buzzed.

One one hand I do feel a little guilty about how we spent our limited time here in Bangkok, but at the same time, it was deliciously indulgent. Maybe it was the perfect way to spend Christmas Eve.

A Few of My Favorite Things

The holidays are approaching and everyone is saying their last goodbyes before the break. Some Shanghai transplants will be having Christmas dinner with their adopted families, usually co-workers, friends, and friends of friends. The city is all dressed up in trees and tinsel, so it really does feel like Christmas. Close friends, food, drinks. The only thing missing from that equation is childhood resentment, which I can happily live without. Those who do travel may be going home for the holidays, or to places completely unlike home. B and I chose to do the latter this year and booked a trip to India.

This was the last weekend we could all get together before 2012, and we went out together with a bang.

Friday night about nine of us went to Party World, similar to KTV, to sing us some karaoke. People here absolutely love karaoke, and in every town, no matter how small, one will find a dimly lit KTV sign somewhere. Karaoke here is nothing like back in the states. There is no stage, no bar full of audience, and no karaoke mama to take your requests. I was a little dissaponted at first, I guess because I like to make an ass out of myself in front of everyone, not just my nearest and dearest. So, your group rents a room by the hour, and is in charge of selecting songs, and pushing the button for food and drinks when needed. It had been a while since I went to belt out my favorites, and it felt awesome. There are two mics, so anyone can join you, if they feel so inclined. I spent five hours there, and when I got home my throat hurt. That’s when you know it’s been a good night of karaoke.

The next night we first went to Tiayro Teppinyaki, so good. For 168 RMB, you get all you an drink beer and sake, and all you can eat everything. We spent hours there taking shots of sake, cheers-ing each other, and occasionally breaking out in some sort of song. There were prawns, fish, lamb chops, tender beef, sushi, all kinds of veggies, and more. I have never left that place less than stuffed nor slightly sober. It is well worth the money spent.

Finally, we ended the night with a little driving under the influence, but not in cars, mind you, and not on the road. Disc Go Kart is an indoor karting track with a bar upstairs. The second you enter all you can smell are exhaust fumes, and trust me, it gets you all revved up for the track. Grab a beer and take it with you to drink while you wait in line for your turn (I know, it’s awesome), then get into your go kart and race up to 8 others for 8 laps around the curvy track. At times it looks like people are drivinng bumper cars, and there will be crashes and small pile ups often. You really have to watch out for those hairpin turns, especially when you have had so much sake and gasoline fumes. Needless to say, it is one of the greatest things I have done in Shanghai. Just remember to wear your seatbelt.

I have found many of my favorite things here in Shanghai. Good food, friends, karaoke, and crazy go karts…these are a few of my favorite things.

My Cat Likes to Eat Diamonds

Shanghai has a way of surprising you; she tests your limits to the point that you feel like you may have to flee, while soon after showing you something that makes you feel like you should stay forever. In one day you can experience serenity, fear, confusion, and joy. Those emotions may be evoked by a fuchsia flower blooming at the beginning of winter, a taxi nearly rear ending the car in front of it, a person accosting you for being crazy enough to walk without an umbrella in the rain, or a taxi stopping to pick you up on a freezing Shanghai night. Everything that happens in Shanghai seems to be an oxymoron; yin and yang. Somehow, it always ends up balancing out.

We came to Shanghai with one pet, a Chihuahua named Pepe. We didn’t plan on getting any other pets until we had a big space of our own, but you know how those things go, especially on the other side of the world. Our first new addition came in the form of a turtle, whose name is still Turtle. She is a Red Eared Slider and loves the water. I fist saw her when she was about the size of a half dollar. She was in a bowl with about twenty other babies, all trying to claw their way to freedom. The baby turtle seller saw that I was an easy target and thrust Turtle in my hand. One look into her shimmering green eyes, and I was sold. I carried her home in my hands and found a plastic container for her to stay for a while. B arrived home, and was understandably confused, “I thought we weren’t getting any more pets.” I replied sheepishly, “I know, but it’s just a turtle.” One trip to Pet Zoo and 7,000 RMB later, Turtle had a pimped out tank.

One night, a few months later my friend was waiting outside a building when she heard meowing from a nearby trashcan. She sifted through the garbage to find two tiny kittens, no more than a couple of days old, tied up in a plastic bag. Fate had decided that was not the way those kittens were going to leave this world, and my friend took them home. She contacted the Second Chance Animal Association of Shanghai, an amazing organization that fights for animal welfare and assists with pet adoption. SCAA paid for the vet visits, kitten formula, and gave excellent advice on how to care for a newborn kitten.

My friend mentioned that one of the kittens developed an infection, and it was getting hard to care for the two. I, without discussing it with B, offered to help with one of the kittens…just until she was adopted of course. Luckily for me, B has a soft spot for cute things, and jumped right in to help care for her. The little ball of orange and white fur grew stronger everyday. We fed her every two to three hours, even at 2 a.m. and 4 a.m., we helped her to the bathroom, joyously declaring to the office that she was pooping quite well. Needless to say, we grew quite attached to the little one. I had just finished bottle feeding her one day when B came up and said, “We’re not giving her up, are we?” I looked at him, wide eyed, “Really?” And that was how we added the fifth member to our family, Penelope the cat.

The cute little kitten went from being a helpless, sightless, wobbly thing, to what she is now: an out of control, out for blood, mad cat. The transformation happened so slowly that we didn’t really notice it at first, we thought it was normal kitten behavior. She got into everything, had crazy dilated pupils at certain times of the night, she ran around chasing an invisible foe while sliding on the wood floor. It was cute because she was little. However, she did not stay little for long, and quickly outgrew Pepe, our poor Chihuahua, who now is attacked daily by his nemesis Penelope.
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One night I was minding my own business, watching TV on the couch, when a cat claw found it’s way into my cheek. Another time I was doing some crunches and a claw sliced into my leg, one of my friends went to play with Penelope one evening and came out with her hand dripping in blood. Then, one night I was petting her and she started to try and eat the diamond off of my engagement ring. She is the most bonkers cat I have ever known, but when your life starts out like hers did, you are bound to have a couple of screws loose, right?

Luckily, Penelope seems to have calmed down over the last month. She has recently been spayed, and maybe that is why I can actually pet her now without being attacked. She still tries to drink out of Turtle’s tank, “play” with Pepe, shove everything off of all of our tables, and she will still try to eat my diamond. But I love her anyway. Penelope is true to her city of birth. She pushed us to the brink, just to the edge of the cliff of insanity, but just in time became more than tolerable. Pretty great, actually.

As I start to plan the next phase of my life in Shanghai, another two and a half years, I know to be prepared for anything and everything. I have some big changes coming up in my life, including a wedding…in Shanghai. I will hope for the best, and plan for the crazy. That’s what you do to survive Shanghai.

Bu Ji Dao

In America, one of the fondest words of a young child is, “why?” All of us have encountered the inquisitive child who is incessantly asking the big question. In America, we have been encouraged to ask why, it is an integral part of our society. To question authority is to be American.

I knew that when I moved to China, one of my most frequent questions would not be answered, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the extent to which I would be silenced. To cope with this, I have learned a phrase in Chinese, and I repeat it often: Bu ji dao, I don’t know.

Some of the major things I had questions about in my first months in Shanghai:

Why do babies wear split pants (pants where their bottoms are exposed at all times?)
Why do babies poo and pee on the sidewalk?
Why do grown men pee anywhere and everywhere?
Why is that dude carrying a purse?
Why is there a large green and white loogie in the elevator?
Why is that old woman “digging for gold”?
Why did that guy just blow a snot rocket onto my shoe?
Why are those girls pointing at me and laughing?
Why did that scooter almost run over me?
Why do I almost get trampled to death on the metro?
Why did the taxi just drive into oncoming traffic?
Why did that guy just push the button for both elevators (Mind you, he is on the 21st floor. One elevator is on the 2nd floor and one is on the 15th).
Why are the yogurt ladies dressed in go go boots and yelling at me through a megaphone?

Why? Why? Why?

Of course there are answers that probably wouldn’t make sense to you or I. For the most part, I just shrug my shoulders, close my eyes, and breathily say, “Bu ji dao.”

There are many obstacles facing those who ask why. In an ever-changing China, which is going through the growing pains of an emerging world power, the question is often met with mixed reactions; some embrace it while others despise it. As one who works at a Chinese school, I often see the division this question can cause. Our school’s student body is a vibrant mix of students from all over China; some from vast grasslands of Inner Mongolia, some from the humid factory lands of Guangzhou, but the one thing they all have in common is that they will leave China to attend university abroad. Our teachers are from China, Canada, the UK, and Oceania, but the one thing we all have in common is that we all want to help the students prepare for an overseas education.

When I was hired to work at my school, I was told, “It is an international school with a British curriculum. Our students are the best of the best, with most of them attending the world’s top universities! Because of this, our number one priority is English.” I thought, ‘Great! This is perfect!’
So, long story short, that is how I ended up where I am today. The reality is, the situation is much different than the picture painted. So, typical me, I asked the question. Many of the new teachers asked the same question, with each of us wearing a most bewildered expression, shrugging exasperatedly. The school’s more experienced teachers put their heads down, did their work, and kept quiet, for the most part.

Fast forward a year and a half, and we are still asking the same question. It is not restricted to the teachers however, as I mentioned in a previous posting, students are asking it as well. The response from the top leaders? “We have to talk about it.” If one has the audacity to inquire again, he or she will receive the reply, “I am not sure, we still have to discuss the details.” Most people never get an answer and just put their heads down, do their work, and keep quiet. The most persistent people will eventually get an answer, that is more or less satisfactory, and go about their lives.

Lesson learned? In China, persistence is a valued characteristic. In any market across the land, buyers and sellers will persist in obtaining the best price for an item. It is not rare for an exchange over the price of a silk scarf to go on for five minutes. The one who persists, within reason mind you, will prevail. This social custom spreads far and wide outside the confines of a local market; it can be found in family relationships, business, education, and government. I have learned that in the People’s Republic of China, it is O.K. to ask why, just don’t expect an adequate response, and expect perhaps that you will have to give up on your cause. This does not apply to everyone however, those with red envelopes and other treats will get appeasing answer.

Well, now that I think of it, isn’t that just the way of the world?

Bu ji dao.

Get Away for Awhile

All it takes is one ride on the metro during rush hour to make you question why you live in Shanghai. Today I felt like a rag doll, being shoved and laughed at while I watched a man grab a woman for no apparent reason. She responded by hitting the man in the shoulder while they both yelled at each other. I though the excitement was over when I was finally able to extract myself from the mob and head out of the train. As I headed toward the exit I heard a zealous, “Hello!” and turned to see who it came from.

It came from a short youngish man who wore glasses and a big grin. He said, “My name is so and so, I am from North Korea!” “Nice to meet you, my name is Lindsey!” All the while he kept shaking my hand, refusing to let go. “You are Cinderella and I am Mickey Mouse,” he continued. I thought, ‘He must be taking classes at Disney English,’ yes, it is a real “English school” out here. “O.K. I have to go!” he finally let go of my hand, but went in for the hug. “Oh, O.K.,” I said, and just then he planted a big wet one on my cheek. I quickly let go and hastily said goodbye. Why do I attract all of the crazies? I practically ran up the escalator, but had to stop because some people weren’t following the stay to the right if you just want to stand rule. I didn’t dare look back in fear that Mickey Mouse would be right behind me. I stepped off the escalator, and like a scary movie, the guy was right behind me again. I swerved into Uniqlo, said goodbye again as he shouted, “I am Donald Duck!” ‘I wish I was still in Moganshan,’ I thought wearily.

When you live in one of the biggest cities in the world, sometimes you just need to get away. Although I would love to take a weekend trip to Southeast Asia or Hainan every few weeks, it’s just not going to happen. But the great thing about Shanghai is that the railway system is fast, easy, and affordable. In about an hour you can be out of the gray and gloomy skies in the city and into the ancient water towns of Suzhou and the famous West Lake in Hangzhou.

Last weekend we went to Prodigy Outdoors, an all inclusive getaway in the bamboo forest of Moganshan. Moganshan is located about 2 hours away from the Hangzhou railway station. It is amazing, and when you breathe in for the first time, I swear you can hear your lungs saying “Thank you”. It seems like Moganshan is the only place in China that you won’t see a bevy of long necked construction cranes, or traffic, or pollution. Actually, on a clear night, one can see stars. Such a simple thing, but I bet there are children in this country who have never seen a star.

Moganshan has an interesting history. It used to be a very popular place for expats to live before the Cultural Revolution It was a place for families to get together and beat the summer heat. Now, it is emerging once again as a respite for city dwellers, both foreign and Chinese. In fact, wealthy Chinese couples visit places like naked Retreats with their friends. Last weekend I saw three women, in true city fashion, climb the rocky steps of the bamboo forest path in thick heels and skirts. Only in China.

Prodigy Outdoors is a no frills kind of place, which is what one usually wants after being surrounded by nothing but frills in the city. There is a fireplace in the common room, 3-4 private rooms, and a large room with bunk beds on the second floor. In case of rain, there is a flatscreen TV and a good selection of movies. The food, cooked by the cutest Ayis, was delicious. Breakfast comprised of fruit, steamed buns, toast, congee, and fermented tofu. If you are brave, try the tofu, after that, you won’t need any coffee, it wakes you right up! For dinner, we had wood oven pizza and barbecued everything. The spread for lunch was just as impressive: egg and tomato, fried poi balls, chicken, beef, fresh peas, carrots, broccoli, and more.

naked Retreats is an eco-friendly venture, and the prices are more steep than those at Prodigy. If you are looking to have a romantic weekend away, this is the place. naked offers private bungalows that are equipped with wood burning stoves and radiators to keep you warm in the crisp mountain air, a fridge stocked with juice, milk, water and more, a basket of wine if you feel so inclined, and kitchenette. In the morning and at noon, an Ayi will come knocking on your door with a basket full of food she carried on a bamboo pole and basket on her shoulders. She comes with fresh bread, vegetables, and baked chicken if you like. If you would rather cook for yourself, you can do that as well.

The location of naked is ideal, as the paths in the forest are well marked and clear. One can take a walk up the stone path to the tea fields. If the season is right, naked will help to organize a tea picking adventure. There are a also a few cool things to see on the various paths, a serene lake where villagers fish with giant bamboo poles, a nunnery, and a small town dotted with a few restaurants. It is the perfect place to get in touch with nature.

Although I am a little sad to be back in the city, I am trying to make the most of it. Still, I look forward to the next getaway…India!

O is for Organic

Last night, after a long day of teaching, I headed out into the Shanghai night to watch a documentary. I head never been to the destination, Melange Oasis, an organic restaurant located in the back of a Shanxi Nan Lu alley, but it was a delightful find. It is often difficult to find organic food in Shanghai. Local food is often very tasty, but saturated with oil and salt. Many restaurants around town offer healthy fare, such as Element Fresh, but it is not necessarily organic.

Eating organic in a country where most of the fruits and vegetables are contaminated with unpronounceable and dangerous chemicals is not always easy, but for me it is becoming clear that I need to make a change in my increasingly street food diet. I am feeling a little bigger than usual, a little more sluggish, and a little more tired. So, last night I resolved to make a change in my diet, and hopefully start exercising again.

One of the changes I will make couldn’t be easier. I am going to start ordering a box of vegetables from BioFarm, an organic farm located in Pudong. BioFarm uses the Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) model, a model that is growing in popularity in the U.S., and now in China. Each week you can send in your order and the time you want it delivered. The boxes are filled with seasonal treats. The options available for this autumn are chilis, black winter melon, potato, sweet potato, Chinese broccoli, pumpkin, and organic eggs and tofu. For about 100 RMB, or more depending on the size, you can have organic and fresh vegetables delivered to your doorstep. So, I have no excuse not to do it, right?

The documentary I saw last night,”The Real Dirt on Farmer John”, hosted by Kimberly Ashton, was another inspiration for me to go organic. It is an excellent film based on the life on an eccentric but awesome Illinois farmer who, in the face of so many obstacles, created Angelic Organics. Not only did he struggle due to the hardships of maintaining a farm in a land where houses are more valuable to the public than food, he also faced persecution from the neighbors because he was different. It is an inspiring film that I highly recommend.

So, before my belly grows anymore, even though winter is coming and that extra layer may help to keep me warm, I am resolving to make a change. Being healthy is not easy, but the benefits definitely outweigh the difficulties on this one. Will you join me?

Goodbye Vietnam!

I’m now back in Shanghai, and it feels great, but I wish my toes were still in the sand. Yesterday was our last day in Nha Trang. We slept in a bit, drank 2 Texas sized margaritas, and reluctantly dragged ourselves away from the beach. There is something different about Vietnam. Everyone is so happy there. Everyone laughs so easily. Life is so simple, just like it should be. Returning to a city like Shanghai isn’t easy, and it makes me think I only have a few more years of city life in me.

As our taxi drove off into the freshly rained on night, I rolled my window down and watched the pairs of friends and lovers passing by on their scooters, yelling and smiling into the warm air. I wanted to join them, but I had to return, I had students to teach.

That night our flight left Saigon airport at 1:55 a.m. We arrived to the Pudong airport at around 7 and were at work by around 8:40 a.m. It was kind of fun just bustling into work like a tumbleweed, although I am now almost too exhausted to keep my eyes open.

For now, I leave you with a list of my Nha Trang faves:

Where to stay:

Ho Chi Minh
Hong Han Hotel
Nha Trang
Ha Van Hotel

What to do:

Spa
Su Spa
Mud Baths
Thap Ba Hot Spring
Four Island Tour
Tien Tien Tour
Long Son Pagoda

Po Nagar Cham Towers

Vietnam Day 4

Today we went on the Tien Tien boat tour with Juliette and Jean. We started the morning going to the Tri Nguyen aquarium, and I do not recommend going there. The barren glass tanks were way too small for some of the giant beasts that lived there. The fish also looked really unhealthy, with many of them having cloudy eyes, not a good sign. So, save your money and avoid the aquarium, the ocean offers a much better view of its creatures anyway.

Next, we went to Mun Island. There, we went snorkeling for a bit. The reef was pretty small, but there were quite a few fish there, a couple of parrot fish were floating around, a trumpet fish stayed close to the sandy bottom, and a huge school of tiny silver fish darted around, trying to avoid the foreign bodies. Sitting in the water near the shore was really nice, just going with the ebb and flow of the waves.

On the way to our next stop we ate an interesting lunch, there was a mix of seafood, what looked like beef, and some of the yummiest tofu I have had in Asia so far. Then we arrived to a place near Mot Island, just off of the dock, next to the aquaculture farm. There the fun really started. There was a small drum set, electric guitar and a bass on the boat, and one of our guides put on quite a show as he dressed in drag and sang to us. He even took B on stage and tried to give him a smooch. B sang, “I love you more than words can say” with “Obama”, it was a legendary performance. I especially liked the part where he groped B and tried to pull his shorts up.

Our new friend Obama, as he has been named by visitors for his likeness to the Pres, told us there are some good opportunities to teach English in Nha Trang, more than in Saigon, which is pretty saturated with English teachers. He said we could rent a nice house for about $70 per month and just teach out of it. Sounds like an excellent idea, and I love Nha Trang more than words can say, so I am sold. After the music ended, they set up a floating bar in the water, we jumped in and enjoyed a few drinks while we floated around in some foam rings, cheers-ing all of our new friends.

Our last stop was Stone Beach, aptly named as it is a very stony beach. We drank some beer and skipped some rocks, well I tried anyway, but B and Jean are much better than me. Then we sat down to share a bottle of wine with a small group of Russians who live in Vietnam. They were really nice, and the conversation was as well. We found out that in Russia, it is customary for the groom to carry his bride across seven bridges that run over water. Seven because the number is lucky, but why bridges over water? “I don’t know!” The man replied. We smiled, rose our glasses, and took a drink together.

On the way back to town, Obama brought me on stage for a rendition of “My heart will go on” as we embraced at the front of the ship, and as I tried to keep him from lifting my dress up in front of everyone. After I had fully embarrassed myself, he let me go.

Later, we went to the small carnival set up along the beach. At first glance, it appeared to be closed, but we were in luck, it was open for business. We bought two tickets, one for the Ferris wheel and one for the dragon. Since we were the only people there, we got the longest dragon ride ever. It was a blast, even though I think the ride is for little kids (my legs barely fit under the bar). I felt like the park had been closed just for us. It was fun to pretend anyway.

We finished the evening with an authentic meal at a Vietnamese place along the beach. I had Pho (even though it is mostly eaten for breakfast, but I had been craving it all day) and fried rice, and B had coconut BBQ chicken. We left satiated and happy, and returned to HaVan for our last night of sleep in this wonderful beachside town.

Vietnam Days 2 and 3

The last three days have been nothing but pure relaxation, which is all I ever really wanted out of this vacation. These days, sitting and doing nothing definitely excites me. If you are looking for a cheap vacation in an amazing place with friendly people, I definitely recommend Nha Trang.

Yesterday we woke up early and headed to rooftop restaurant of HaVan, our hotel, and had the free breakfast. The breakfast is amazing…Vietnamese coffee, delicious crusty baguette dragon fruit, rhambutan, watermelon, an omlette and a banana, all of which was included in our room rate (except a tiny bit more for the coffee). Then we decided to head to the beach, since it was the only sunny day in the five day forecast.

Walking down the public beach, we found a popular spot for locals. It looked like a place for business deals and coffee with friends. We used it as a place to unwind with a lover. A few beers, gin and tonics, and a rain shower later, we walked back down to the beach and into the water. It was brown and sandy from the recent monsoons, but warm nonetheless.

We made our way back to the hotel and asked around for a good place to get massages. The friendly Frenchman who runs the joint mentioned two places, one of which was Su Spa. Su Spa was awesome and he, “…went and felt like, aahhh!” We had to go. So, we booked “The Su Experience” and boy let me tell you, was it an experience. We first walked in and were escorted to a seat next to the coy pond (which, thank God I didn’t put my feet into, I almost did, but then I realized the fish weren’t the sucker fish). A few minutes later we were offered robes, and eventually taken to our rooms of relaxation.

First the masseuse washed our feet in cool water and scrubbed them down. Next, two people rubbed us down from head to toe in oil. We just basked in bliss while four hands worked us over. Then, one person rubbed our scalps and one rubbed our feet, integrating hot stones into the treatment. The person working on the head area dug into our scalps in the nicest way and then worked her way into our face. Meanwhile, the person on the feet pushed hot stones into our pressure points. Back to the face. First, a milk and honey mask that I wanted to eat, then another seemingly edible concoction is slathered on from forehead to neck, mmmm. Then, the face is finished off with a cold cucumber mask. After that, a full frontal (meaning everywhere but the naughty bits) massage ensues. I have never felt more like royalty in my life. Needless to say, we did not do much else that evening, just ate an Italian dinner, relaxed and watched Animal Planet (which I really miss!).

Day 3

Today we woke up to another awesome breakfast and booked a private taxi tour to a couple places around town, the first place was the Long Son Pagoda, a beautiful temple with a 46 foot tall Buddha statue. It is said that you can see the statue from almost anywhere in the city. The feeling one experiences there is one of awe and peace (but expect to be asked to buy something or give money along the way). Next, we went to the Po Nagar Cham Towers, built in the 8th century, another place where one can experience beauty and peace. Traveling during rainy season has it’s drawbacks, but the one good thing is that there weren’t too many visitors around, so we were able to get some awesome photos.

We stopped by our hotel for a bit of freshening up and then headed to the beach again. Along the way we encountered a group of friends drinking bootleg liquor out of a big water bottle. They poured us each a shot, it wasn’t too strong, even a little sweet. They have us some rhambutan and then we said goodbye. We ambled in the sand with smiles on our faces, and ended up at the beer bar we went the day before (which has an excellent choice of unique brews and tasty food), Lousiane Brew House, and there met a sweet couple from Brasilia, she works in Qingdao and he in Brasilia. We hung out, drank, ate some food, and planned our next day…a boat tour with our new Brazilian friends.

Vietnam Day 1

So, I am sitting here in Flamingo Suites HaVan in Nha Trang, sipping on a Saigon beer and watching a canton pop performance on TV, and life is pretty great. It’s pretty great in spite of the fact that one of the dudes in the boy band I am watching has the exact same hair color as me (unnatural blond), and in spite of the fact that I have a strange rash breaking out all over my body. So far, Vietnam has been ahhh-mazing, let me tell you why.

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh city late last night, 1:00 a.m., and finished the paperwork for our visa on arrival. As I mentioned earlier, I used myvietnamvisa.com to secure me and B’s travel visas for Vietnam. We selected the urgent option and received our acceptance letter via e-mail. We brought the letter, the name list with our names on it, and the visa application form. Super easy and the company is great. One thing I forgot though was $25, and only had RMB. The guy at the counter said, “OK, 300 RMB”, that is actually way more than $25, which would be 160 RMB, but I really wasn’t in a place to argue, so I forked it over. Finally, we were freed from the confines of immigration and set out to find a bed for a few hours.

We made the mistake of talking to the guy with a car that wasn’t actually a taxi and paid too much to get where we were going, but at that point, I did not care. However, anyone traveling to any foreign country probably knows that you should always take a legitimate taxi when possible (as you may know by now, I don’t always make the best choices.) Long story short, we made it to our destination on Bui Vien Street, and had three glorious hours of sleep.

The hotel we stayed at is called Hong Han Hotel. It is cute, new, clean, and the guy at the front desk is super nice. The area is interesting, well what I saw if it anyway, at 2:00 a.m. it was filled with people, travelers and locals, eating, drinking, and picking up last minute partners for the night. I wish we would have spent more time Ho Chi Minh, but I guess it just wasn’t meant to be.

We arrived in Nha Trang at 8:45 a.m. and took a taxi into town, about 20 minutes or so. We didn’t have a destination yet, as our room wouldn’t be ready until 2:00. We sat at a nice restaurant for breakfast, meanwhile I Googled “armpit, inner forearm, thigh rash,” and after a short time was convinced I had shingles. We took a short trip to the hospital, found a really nice woman to translate for us, and I was given two prescriptions. I did not have a clue what the diagnosis was, or what the medication would treat, so I Googled once more, and inferred that the doctor thought I had some allergic reaction and gave me an antihistamine and a steroid. Well, at least I don’t have shingles (maybe? hopefully?).

We then went to our hotel, awesome by the way, and plotted out our next move. We decided that the mud baths would do us both some good, especially me with my increasingly rashed body. It turned out to be the best decision of the day. The place is called Thap Ba, and it is definitely one of the gems of Nha Trang. For 1,000,000 Dong, about $50, we both got a mud bath, mineral bath, foot massage, and hot spring bath. It was super relaxing and helped my rash tons (sorry to keep saying “rash”, I know, it grosses me out too).

So now I will drift off to sleep, hoping tomorrow I won’t have shingles anymore, dreaming dreams of blond canton pop stars.

P.S. I have noticed that a lot of my search referrals come from creepy search phrases such as, “old men kissing young girls,” and “where to get a nasty hot massage in Shanghai”. I guess it is my fault for the way I word things, but seriously, WTF?